Moving back to Detroit...maybe

[EL Jimbo]

Got a question. I have an opportunity to possibly move back to Detroit. Unfortunately, I haven't lived in the city since I was 10 months old in 1982 and I haven't lived in Metro Detroit for over a decade. If I move back, I would like to live in the city. I'm 29 years old and married. Are there any decent parts of the city to move to [[probably renting at first) for a young married couple that like a vibrant neighborhood with a lot of activity but are likely to settle down with kids in a few years?

I know this is a bit of a rambling request, but I know this is the best place to go for input on this subject.

Thanks.

[BrushStart]

Yes, there are. Get back here, El Jimbo!

In all seriousness, if you are looking for something urban you should look at downtown, Midtown, Corktown, Woodbridge, E. Riverfront, Lafayette Park and Eastern Market . If you are looking for more residential, look into the Villages, specifically West Village, Indian Village and English Village.

Here is a good resource to start looking for places: http://www.downtowndetroit.org/ddp/housing_intro.htm

[x97winkler]

There are lots of great places to live in the city. My wife, 2 year old son and I moved back to Michigan last year after spending 10 years in Florida. We moved to Indian Village and could not be happier. It is a great neighborhood, amazing houses and even better neighbors. There are also quite a few young families. Good Luck.

[EL Jimbo]

Thanks to both of you so far.

I guess the biggest thing for us in terms of lifestyle would involve places to go and do things. We can be homebodies as much as anybody, but we like to get out a bit as well. I know there are great places to go eat and do cultural/sports/entertainment things [[My wife and I spent the afternoon in the city and ate at Union Street Grille..yum). I'm asking more about some of the things that make a neighborhood "home". Things like:

Is there a decent gym to workout?
Do I have to go to the suburbs to grocery shop or see a movie?
Can my wife go for a run in the evening?
Is there a well maintained park nearby?

Basically, my entire life I've experienced Detroit from the perspective of a visitor. I like to think I know the city, but from a day to day perspective I don't. Detroit has been part of my family's story for over 200 years and I hope it can be part of mine as well. I just have to get some information before I pull up stakes and head out.

[EL Jimbo]

Yes, there are. Get back here, El Jimbo!

In all seriousness, if you are looking for something urban you should look at downtown, Midtown, Corktown, Woodbridge, E. Riverfront, Lafayette Park and Eastern Market . If you are looking for more residential, look into the Villages, specifically West Village, Indian Village and English Village.

Here is a good resource to start looking for places: http://www.downtowndetroit.org/ddp/housing_intro.htm

When was the last time that link was updated? There are a lot of dead links on the apartments

[Flintoid]

I would have to agree that the villages are very nice, but also the Grandmont Rosedale area is nice with a really active neighborhood development association. If your looking for great architecture, Sherwood Forest or Palmer Woods are gorgeous.

[EL Jimbo]

Yeah...I noticed that about Sherwood Forest and Palmer Park. Why are the houses so cheap? Are those neighborhoods dieing out?

[laphoque]

If your wife wants to run at night probably the areas where WSU Police patrol would be best: so a 4 mile radius around campus = Midtown, Woodbridge. Downtown is not dangerous either, especially when compared to other city downtowns. There just won't be many people out there unless there's a club right by. Although, Greektown is a notable exception. I run at night but I'm a dude so I attract a smaller demographic group of shouts: usually bros exiting a sporting event or a casino. I go to the Wayne State gym since I'm a student there. My boyfriend likes Fitness Works up in New Center.

I like the lofts up in Eastern Market: there are some sweet ones.

Hamtramck is the densest most diverse place in Michigan and it's surrounded by the city of Detroit. Detroit has a lot of park space but the maintenance is often lacking. I've never found a working drinking fountain or bathroom in Palmer Park for example.

On the other hand Rouge Park has these crazy mountain bike trails some people made.

Right in Midtown there's the WSU athletic field, the parks downtown, a park by CCS that I never see anyone in, but by far the most used park is Belle Isle which you would be next to if you were in the villages. If you were downtown though you'll soon have a direct bike path to Belle Isle.

LaFayette Park is next to the Friend's School where a lot of my roommate and a lot of his friends went to. It's a private Quaker School.. the Obama kids go to the one in DC. And there is tons of park space right around there and it's near the river and the Dequindre Cut.

You don't need to go to the burbs for shopping, there are Spartan stores—a franchise chain—around and there are several good Mexican groceries in Southwest Detroit. Eastern Market has excellent produce, but it's better in season of course. Trader Joe's & Whole Food's are in the burbs but only like 20 mins away.

We have a three theaters that show things the burbs' don't: Detroit Film Theatre in the Detroit Institute of Arts, The Burton Theatre in the old Burton School in the Lower Cass Corridor, and The Old Redford theatre, a beautifully revamped old school movie theatre which shows old time movies on the weekends. It's in a neighborhood that just got some love from the Free Press as well. http://www.freep.com/article/2011032...-Works-Project There's also the Rencen with major releases.

I usually go to Dearborn for 3D stuff, the drive in on the Detroit-Dearborn border the Ford Wyoming when I went to take in a double feature, or the IMAX at the Henry Ford for IMAX 3D stuff. The IMAX at the Detroit Science Center only plays educational releases.

Find a place you'd like to rent, try it out for a bit. Plug in, network, etc.

Metroparent recently did a series about raising kids in the city and I think they had some workshops. http://www.metroparent.com/Metro-Par...ty-of-Detroit/

If you're going to be in Metro Detroit, there's no place like the city to plug in and work on cool projects.

I've been getting some entertainment out of this blog about a stay at home dad who lives in LaFayette Park IIRC. He's got a lot of cool DIY projects and I've been inspired to check out Belle Isle more from some of his posts. [[Ice Skating on the Canals, Exploring the shuttered zoo). http://www.sweet-juniper.com/

I recommend getting a bike as well. Otherwise you'll find yourself full of auto angst. Although cars are the most efficient ways to get to the burbs and such. The bus takes 50-100% more time typically. But if you bike you'll learn the side streets and be able to navigate traffic jams

Sorry to post so much but the Marche of the Nain Rouge reminds me of how much fun it is to see parents and kids out playing. I used to be out with my friends all the time in Dearborn when I was growing up but it seems like you don't see kids out as much anymore. The crime rate's been falling around the metro area, but people don't let their kids out anymore. Sad.

As for the Detroit Real Estate websites, they are hit or miss. Many places are offline or you got to happen upon them on Craigslist. Here are some other websites that might help, but you might be better off calling the numbers listed on them, or calling the neighborhood organizations for the neighborhoods you're looking to locate in. Here are some more to try.

http://www.modeldmedia.com/cities/ a list of different neighborhoods that are for the most part solid.
http://livemidtown.org/available-properties New Center, Midtown, Woodbridge only.
http://detroitmidtown.com/05/midtown.php Greater downtown area.

Good luck with your search!

[laphoque]

Yeah...I noticed that about Sherwood Forest and Palmer Park. Why are the houses so cheap? Are those neighborhoods dieing out?

Detroit was one of the hardest hit cities for the housing crisis. Our foreclosure rate was on par or higher than Vegas for much of the economic crisis.

[mwilbert]

Palmer Park is mostly apartments/condos. Many of the buildings are architecturally interesting, but the tenants and managements are a mixed bag. You wouldn't have any trouble finding a rental. I ride my bike through there, but I don't have much of a sense of what living there would be like.

I don't think Sherwood Forest is dying out [[if you walk/ride/drive through there you will see things looking pretty good), but prices there and in the University District and to a lesser extent in Palmer Woods have been massively affected by foreclosures/bank-owned sales. There is a tremendous dispersion in prices which makes people nervous and makes financing hard to get. The good news [[from your point of view) is that if you are interested in checking out one of those neighborhoods, there are a good number of rentals available which would not have been true years ago. But while there is some relatively convenient shopping [[there are grocery stores, and decent take-out food, and a few restaurants) and proximity to the suburbs as needed, I wouldn't say there is a lot of "activity". For that you are probably talking the greater downtown/midtown area. Or Ferndale or Royal Oak.

[EMG]

Are there any decent parts of the city to move to [[probably renting at first) for a young married couple that like a vibrant neighborhood with a lot of activity but are likely to settle down with kids in a few years?

I know this is a bit of a rambling request, but I know this is the best place to go for input on this subject.

Keep in mind, though, that it's not the only place to go [[for input). A wide variety of opinions from multiple sites is always best.

One primary issue - that of settling down with kids. Do some independent and very careful research on the schooling options, graduation rates, college entrance exam scores, college acceptance rates. Make sure you wind up in an area where your future kids will have the best chance of success.

[rencense]

Hi jimbo,

Brush mentioned many of the areas fairly close to downtown which are pretty popular. There are also other areas like Rosedale and East english village that are a steal right now. I wouldn't say they're emptying out but they are hurting a bit these days and could use some new residents. They're still beautiful and full of great people though. I guess it depends on which is more important: being near the action and amenities, or in a more residential neighborhood a bit further away.

To chime in on your questions a bit:

1) gyms: theres a great newer YMCA downtown and i know theres a powerhouse gym on gd river in rosedale. Also some of the apartment buildings have decent equipment on site.

2) ah the lack of grocery store myth never dies but theres are many decent grocery stores in the city. Many are concentrated in SW but I know many others throughout the city. In fact there are also 2 more about to open up downtown. The eastern market is the best especially in the nicer months and there are also small farmers markets in a few neighborhoods.

Lots of great theater venues, but also if you're looking for something more recent theres still no reason to hit the burbs; theres a pretty nice suburban style theater in the ren cen.

3) The above suggestions for a run are good. I'd also add the new riverwalk and dequindre cut. These are scenic and safe [[though they close at 10 i believe)

4) unfortunately parks are one of the first victims of detroits red ink but belle isle is keep up reasonably well. I've heard rouge park is cool too.

good luck!

[rencense]

Oh and i almost forgot the elephant in the room. Obviously the public schools are in a sorry state right now. I hope they improve in the next few years but many wind up checking out private schools and charters if they want to stay in town with kids

[Marc]

Now is the time to move back if you have the opportunity. I moved back a year and a half ago from Chicago and it seems like every day something new and exciting is popping up. Couldn't be happier. The sense of community here is incredible whether you live in Midtown, Downtown or East Jefferson.

Let me know if you are planning a visit here soon, I'd be happy to take a day or a a weekend and reintroduce you to the city. I can also give you a tour of the neighborhoods and loft/apartment buildings if you are seriously considering a move. Feel free to message me.

Also, Check out Model D as suggested above.

[EL Jimbo]

Thanks to all...again. This is why I come here. Mostly I lurk because I don't have my ear to the ground like you guys do so I try not to say much. Even though it's been 29 years since I was a resident, and even 10 years outside the region, I still have a passion for the city as an individual, and as an urban planner, I find it equally fascinating from a professional level. And not like most outsiders view it for the "ruin porn" but also because amid all the devastation, Detroit is a blank canvas that is an urban planner's dream. I really hope I can come home and get my hands dirty "making things right".

Any other suggestions you got, fire away, but thanks for helping to re-affirm what I hope to do. Now I just got to land the job!

[bailey]

Thanks to all...again. This is why I come here. Mostly I lurk because I don't have my ear to the ground like you guys do so I try not to say much. Even though it's been 29 years since I was a resident, and even 10 years outside the region, I still have a passion for the city as an individual, and as an urban planner, I find it equally fascinating from a professional level. And not like most outsiders view it for the "ruin porn" but also because amid all the devastation, Detroit is a blank canvas that is an urban planner's dream. I really hope I can come home and get my hands dirty "making things right".

Any other suggestions you got, fire away, but thanks for helping to re-affirm what I hope to do. Now I just got to land the job!

it's not Detroit...but at the end of April, I will have a newly renovated rental flat in GPP available. It is less than a block from Defer Elementary and Pierce Middle school as well as Kercheval in the Park. Of course you'd also have access to GPPs private parks and you're minutes from all that Downtown has to offer. Might be a good place for a base of operations while you look for a permanent place. just throwing that out there.

[canuck]

Thanks to all...again. This is why I come here. Mostly I lurk because I don't have my ear to the ground like you guys do so I try not to say much. Even though it's been 29 years since I was a resident, and even 10 years outside the region, I still have a passion for the city as an individual, and as an urban planner, I find it equally fascinating from a professional level. And not like most outsiders view it for the "ruin porn" but also because amid all the devastation, Detroit is a blank canvas that is an urban planner's dream. I really hope I can come home and get my hands dirty "making things right".

Any other suggestions you got, fire away, but thanks for helping to re-affirm what I hope to do. Now I just got to land the job!

Very interesting and refreshing!

Do you have any ideas about planning Detroit, even preliminary ones?

[Eric_c]

Check this out: www.thevillagesofdetroit.com

By far the best near-downtown neighborhood in the city by virtue of it's proximity to retail along Jefferson, good markets [[Eastern, Harbortown and Indian Village) as well as end-of-the-street access to the Detroit Riverfront, Gabriel Richard Park, Belle Isle and the Riverwalk.

It's much quieter here due to our lack of freeways and offers a mix of historic single and multi-family properties, new condos, apartments, high-rises, etc. Also, a very active community association and amazing, dedicated neighbors.

[Django]

Theres a nice family oriented block on Farnsworth between McDougal and Moran. Im sure theres some apts for rent, possibly a house for sale. If you talk to anybody on the block they will tell you who to talk to. Its a very friendly community but it is surrounded by not so nice. A lot of artists and farmers on the block.

[DetroitPole]

Thanks to both of you so far.

I guess the biggest thing for us in terms of lifestyle would involve places to go and do things. We can be homebodies as much as anybody, but we like to get out a bit as well. I know there are great places to go eat and do cultural/sports/entertainment things [[My wife and I spent the afternoon in the city and ate at Union Street Grille..yum). I'm asking more about some of the things that make a neighborhood "home". Things like:

Is there a decent gym to workout?
Do I have to go to the suburbs to grocery shop or see a movie?
Can my wife go for a run in the evening?
Is there a well maintained park nearby?

Basically, my entire life I've experienced Detroit from the perspective of a visitor. I like to think I know the city, but from a day to day perspective I don't. Detroit has been part of my family's story for over 200 years and I hope it can be part of mine as well. I just have to get some information before I pull up stakes and head out.

Well, you certainly sound well-suited to the city. I think you know you'd like to live here, so in that case I encourage you to do so.

Based on what you're looking for, from my personal perspective, what comes to mind for me are Corktown and the "Art Center" neighborhood. Art Center is the term apparently applied to the area north of Warren and east of Woodward. It seems to be kind of tucked away in terms of greater downtown publicity, but I get the impression that it is nice and quiet, but obviously right next to much of the great stuff the city has to offer.
Corktown is close to the action but also has a lot of families; homes. I'd steer clear of North Corktown. Sorry, folks, just will always seem to me to be more of an "urban pioneer" type place.

I live in East English Village and its a nice neighborhood; great neighbors. Possibly too sedated for your tastes though. We're about 15 minutes from downtown on the freeway. Great housing stock, but we do have quite a few vacant houses that desperately need good people in them. I'd recommend it, especially if you want a really nice but managably-sized house, but again it may not be exactly what you have in mind. We're having a home tour sometime in the fall - check us out if you're around.
www.eastenglishvillage.org

[BrushStart]

Theres a nice family oriented block on Farnsworth between McDougal and Moran.

That is a neat little island. I never even knew that little neighborhood was there.

[Django]

That is a neat little island. I never even knew that little neighborhood was there.

Farnsworth really is a nice island, or oasis as I've always called it. The past few years a bunch of younger kids from all over the U.S. have bought up some homes that were on the brink of being too far gone and they're now rehabbing them. The corner of Moran and Farns has a building thats used as a community center/art studios/jam stage. I really miss living there. Everybody looks out for each other and block parties and BBQs are a regular thing in the summer
DetroitPole I agree with also. Im currently in East English Village and besides the few abandons here and there its a great hood. Friendly neighbors and I feel safe. We happen to have three rooms for rent in the house Im in if anybody knows anyone looking for temp or long term. Just PM me.

[EL Jimbo]

Very interesting and refreshing!

Do you have any ideas about planning Detroit, even preliminary ones?

Nothing too groundbreaking for this board as this group is pretty savvy when it comes to planning type initiatives. I like the push that seems to be coming out of Detroit Works for a more comprehensive transportation system and denser development. I think one of the secondary issues that led to Detroit's fall from where it was can be drawn back from a lack of diversity in housing types.

[Strathcona]

I would be careful with this statement:

"I really hope I can come home and get my hands dirty "making things right."

It is a recipe for disaster. Know what your getting into. Rent an apartment in Midtown for a few years, that will give you the time you need to understand this town! On that note, Welcome home!

[EL Jimbo]

Well I don't expect to come in and be some sort of miracle worker. I do feel that I can do my part.