Painting/drywall questions

**Maof** · February-14-13, 08:11 AM

I recently took down wallpaper in a small bathroom. In doing so, it peeled some of the drywall off. It's not too bad [[just some "scaring" here and there) but i want to paint and not quite sure how to repair the wall. I'm hoping I can just sand it and if so, what grade sandpaper should I use. Any ideas?

**Honky Tonk** · February-14-13, 08:45 AM

Originally Posted by Maof

I recently took down wallpaper in a small bathroom. In doing so, it peeled some of the drywall off. It's not too bad [[just some "scaring" here and there) but i want to paint and not quite sure how to repair the wall. I'm hoping I can just sand it and if so, what grade sandpaper should I use. Any ideas?

You REALLY need to fill and sand the spots that you peeled so you get a nice flat surface, and they don't show after you paint. The major supply chains have several types of drywall plaster type filler. [[DON'T buy DAP spakling) One type requires minimal sanding, but is very soft, and easily dinged. Because it is a bathroom, and you're going to have moisture. I highly recommend using an anti-mold type primer such as Kilz or Zinnzer Bullseye first before applying your top color coat.

**kenp** · February-14-13, 08:47 AM

Dont sand out gouges in drywall or plaster. Get a trowel or putty scrapper and level of any thing that needs to be removed like glue or other imperfections.
Then get some drywall joint compound and with the putty knife apply to the gouges and cracks. Dont leave excess, just enough to fill the hole and making it level with the wall. Then use fine sand paper [[150 grit) so smooth it out.
the trick is just use enough compound to fill the hole, then sanding is easy

**Gannon** · February-14-13, 08:51 AM

Originally Posted by Maof

I recently took down wallpaper in a small bathroom. In doing so, it peeled some of the drywall off. It's not too bad [[just some "scaring" here and there) but i want to paint and not quite sure how to repair the wall. I'm hoping I can just sand it and if so, what grade sandpaper should I use. Any ideas?

Don't start sanding...you'll just continue to fray and frazzle the paper surface!

You have to spread a very thin coating of spackle and let it fully dry before sanding it smooth. Then, to get closer to the same texture as the other paint, a generous coat of primer would help.

There are various grades of spackle/mud, you want one of the quickest drying ones...it'll be relatively light compared to similar-sized slow-drying mixes.

If you've gone through the paper, run a moist sponge or paper towel over the raw spots before applying the spackling, to keep the DRYwall from absorbing too much moisture from the spackle too quickly. [[this is especially important if you've ever cut a hole and had to patch it, the edges all need to be moistened) Don't get it TOO wet, just damp.

Lay the spackle smoothly, feathering the edges well beyond your damage. Any lumps or rough edges will be easily seen once the wall is painted. Don't get too detail-oriented, but the smoother the less sanding necessary.

Usually, I'll start with a rough to medium grit sand block, most of them have different grit on each side...then finish with fine sandpaper to feather the edges completely. You cannot start with that, because it would get clogged with drywall dust, you've got to do the rough stuff first.

Use a powerful shop light to illuminate the wall, from various angles, one at a time. That will help show uneven or non-straight patches, rough edges, and those spots too smooth...which will glare at you if you don't give 'em texture before the final paint coat.

Every extra moment spent in preparation to paint, insuring a good surface and true corners, will make for infinitely better results.

Oh, and wear a good mask when you sand the drywall mud. That crap sticks in the sinuses and lungs for while.

Cheers

P.S.: Good catch on the anti-mold primer, bravo Honky Tonk!

**Maof** · February-14-13, 09:03 AM

crap.....

. i had a feeling you were gonna tell me that!

thanks

**Gannon** · February-14-13, 09:11 AM

This is when all time estimates for the job get thrown out the window, and you plead for mercy from anyone else who has to use that room. For the next few days. But it'll be worth it!

**kenp** · February-14-13, 09:12 AM

Its not hard, just smooth it flat. Dont glob it on, then Sanding is a breeze

**gnome** · February-14-13, 10:03 AM

Hold the phone ... Drywall topping or joint compound and spackle are not interchangeable. Spackle is to fill tiny holes from push pins or thumbtacks. Maybe nail holes if they are small holes, but do not use spackle on the job described above.

no, no and no.

gannon gives a good tip about slightly wetting the surface. it is good advice for two reasons. 1, it will help the new joint compound to flow easier on old drywall; and 2, the old drywall will suck the moisture from the new compound thereby making it prone to crackling. A longer cure time will ensure a tougher finish.

it has been my experience that new topping on an old surface will stand out from the old drywall once the wall is painted. The reason is because the old surface has had years of use and layers of paint. To make the new finish blend with the old, get a fine paint roller and soak it in water. Ring it out until it feels dry and then roll it over the new surface.

but the main point: don't use spackling for this job.

**black gold man** · February-14-13, 10:27 AM

If near east side i will fix for you.

**Honky Tonk** · February-14-13, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by black gold man

If near east side i will fix for you.

Do you do drywall and plaster professionally?

**Maof** · February-14-13, 02:27 PM

black gold - thanks for the offer, but i'm trying to save on the expense.<<<famous last words. i won't need a anti mold primer [[i don't think) because it's a tiny powder room...just a toilet and sink. there's so many scrapes on the walls that i'm about to do something with a texture. i have taken wallpaper down but never had a problem until this time. i'm sure it was the original paper from the 60's.

**black gold man** · February-14-13, 06:06 PM

"Do you do drywall and plaster professionally"

Since 1989

**gnome** · February-14-13, 06:17 PM

Send me a pm with your contact info. I have a friend who needs some drywall work, and he keeps asking me to help, but his needs are beyond my skill level. Do you only work the east side ?

**canuck** · February-15-13, 09:39 PM

All excellent advice above comrades.

I do paint and plaster for film sets and residential and commercial when not busy on movies.

One way of tweaking texture onto the new spackled spot is to use a mini roller to spot prime where you put enough paint on the spot to achieve the orange peel texture of the old wall.

There are different kinds of spackling for flat bare spots such as peeled paint or drywall and those for nail holes. In a bathroom or in a basement, it is wise to do corner walls and first coat jointing with durabond type joint compound which dries rock hard but is resistant to mold. You can buy it in a small box or a big bag for bigger jobs. When you do the first coat with durabond, dont slap it on too thick, because it is very hard to sand, make it so your next coats in regular USG [[or in Canada CSG) compound skims on smoothly. Kilz and Zinsser are great oil primers and you can get the odorless one which is a lot better especially if you are in a confined space like a bathroom.

I just had to remove green wallboard, from my basement bathroom last week, and put in fiberboard because there was mold growing at the lowest point at the edge of a shower wall even though no sign of penetration was apparent. In summertime even with ventilation, when the basement is damper, there is never enough time for it to dry between showers so mold can grow. I put in Fiberboard from USG, a cellulose gypsum mixed board which resists mold and decomposition from dampness and did my joints with durabond for the initial mudcoat.